Court and Play
Kitchen (non-volley zone)
The 7-foot zone on each side of the net. You can't volley while standing in it or touching its line, so points there are played with soft shots. If most of your game happens here, look at control paddles.
Dink
A soft shot from near the kitchen line that drops into your opponent's kitchen. Dinking rallies reward paddles with good touch, which is what our control rating tries to capture.
Reset
A soft shot that takes the pace off a hard-hit ball and drops it into the kitchen, turning an attack back into a neutral rally. A thicker core and a big sweet spot make resets more forgiving.
Third-shot drop
The serving team's third shot of the rally, hit softly so it lands in the kitchen and lets them move up to the net.
Drive
A hard, low shot hit from the back of the court. Players who drive a lot usually want a power paddle.
Volley
Hitting the ball before it bounces. Volleys aren't allowed while you're in the kitchen.
Putaway
An attacking shot meant to end the point, usually off a high ball. Extra reach from an elongated paddle helps here.
Paddle Build
Core
The inside of the paddle, between the two faces. Most cores are polymer honeycomb or foam, and the core type and thickness shape how a paddle plays more than anything else.
Honeycomb core
A core made of small polypropylene cells, the most common build. Brands describe it as controlled and consistent. See foam core vs honeycomb.
Foam core
A core made of solid or layered foam (often EPP and EVA) instead of honeycomb. Brands say foam gives more pop and keeps its feel longer, and on our scale it adds 1.5 to power. See the best foam-core paddles.
EVA and EPP foam
Two kinds of foam used in paddle cores and edges. EPP is lighter and springier; EVA is denser and is often used as a perimeter ring.
Thermoformed
A build where the faces and edges are heat-molded into one sealed shell. Brands say it adds stiffness, power and a larger sweet spot. See thermoformed paddles explained.
Unibody
A one-piece build where the handle and face are molded together instead of joined. It's often paired with thermoforming.
Edge guard
The protective rim around the paddle's edge. Some paddles skip it to make the face slightly bigger.
Face (surface)
The hitting surface. The material, and how rough it is, affect spin and feel.
Carbon fiber (T700, raw carbon)
The most common face material on modern paddles. T700 is a grade of Toray carbon fiber; "raw carbon" means the weave is left unpainted with a textured finish for spin. See carbon vs fiberglass.
Fiberglass
A face material with more flex than carbon, which brands say adds pop. On our scale it adds to power and takes a little from control.
Grit and peel ply
Textures that help the face grip the ball for spin. Grit is a coating; peel ply is a rough finish left by peeling away a fabric layer during manufacturing. Some grits wear down over time, and we note it when buyers report it.
Specs
Swing weight
How heavy a paddle feels when you swing it, which depends on where the weight sits, not just the total. Higher swing weight gives more plow-through; lower is quicker at the net. For more mass, see heavyweight paddles. See swing weight vs twist weight.
Twist weight
How much a paddle resists twisting on off-center hits. A higher twist weight usually means a more stable, forgiving face.
Sweet spot
The area of the face that gives a clean, solid hit. Wider faces, thicker cores and extra edge weight make it bigger, and it's one of our four ratings. See the most forgiving paddles for beginners.
Core thickness
Usually 13 to 19 mm. Thinner cores add pop and power; thicker cores add control and soak up pace. On our scale 16 mm earns control points and 17 mm or more earns the most.
Elongated
A long, narrow shape, 16.5 inches or longer on our scale. It adds reach and power but usually narrows the sweet spot. Most power paddles are elongated. See paddle shapes explained.
Hybrid
A middle shape between standard and elongated, 16.1 to 16.4 inches long on our scale, balancing reach and forgiveness.
Standard and widebody
Shorter, wider shapes, 16 inches or shorter on our scale. Widebodies (about 8 inches wide) have the most forgiving faces. See control paddles, where widebodies do well.
Handle length
How long the grip is. Longer handles (5.5 inches and up) suit two-handed backhands; shorter handles leave more room for the face.
Grip circumference
How thick the handle is around. Most paddles run about 4.125 to 4.25 inches; smaller hands usually prefer the thinner end.
Balance point
Where the paddle balances along its length. A higher balance point makes it feel head-heavy, with a higher swing weight.
Rules and Approval
USA Pickleball approved
On USA Pickleball's official approved paddle list, which is required for sanctioned tournaments. Every review we publish says whether the exact model is listed.
UPA-A certified
Certified by the United Pickleball Association of America for its own events. It isn't the same as being on the USA Pickleball list, and we flag paddles that have one but not the other.
PBCoR
A measure of how much rebound speed a paddle gives the ball. Approval rules set a maximum, and some brands list their paddle's rating.
Definitions use each brand’s published descriptions and our own rating scale. We don’t play-test paddles.
Next Step
Put the Terms to Work
See what each spec changes on court in our buying guide, or line paddles up side by side.